Culinary and visionary talents combine to take Las Brisas to new levels of distinction during 40th year
By DIANNE RUSSELL
It’s impossible to walk by Las Brisas’ crowded patio and not salivate over the food and the unparalleled view of Main Beach and the coast beyond. Yet, as Las Brisas celebrates its 40th year in business, new General Manager Howard Gardner and new Executive General Manager Michael Gaines visualized a culinary revamp that would take the legendary restaurant up a notch – or after tasting some of the innovative dishes, I’d say quite a few notches.
A significant Southern California landmark perched above the scenic Laguna Beach coastline, Las Brisas is a premier dining destination. A strong sense of history stretches back to the Victor Hugo Inn, a world-class eatery and celebrity getaway that debuted in 1938. The breezy retreat overlooking the Pacific transformed to Las Brisas in 1979, yet still retained the beauty and charm of a romantic, bygone era.

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Courtesy of Las Brisas
Unparalleled view
Although the restaurant underwent modifications in 2017, the new changes will bring it more in tune with its magnificent surroundings.
Gardner, who brings more than 25 years of experience from revered establishments such as Water Grill, says, “The menus were fragmented. There was a separate one for the patio and the dining area. Our goal was to unify and elevate the dining to a new level, with the intention that the inside and outside spaces and the culinary experience match the extraordinary views. We wanted the food to equal the ambience.” (To this end, the former Sunday buffet is now full service as well.)
With this goal in mind, Gaines, an Orange County native whose diverse background includes posts in Michelin-starred kitchens in northern California, and being a restaurant owner himself, collaborates with Las Brisas’ esteemed culinary team to redefine modern coastal cuisine.

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Courtesy of Las Brisas
Conramar Fish
They’ve already opened up the area next to the patio and plan to put booths in along the windows. Additionally, within the next six months, they will reupholster the dining room booths, update the bar and replace the outdoor awnings. “We’re taking it step by step,” says Gardner. “We also retrained the crew and introduced new uniforms.”
The cuisine is described as seafood focused with a Mexican touch. Gaines’ touches are subtle and sublime; the parsley herb finish on the Conramar fish, the cauliflower puree with the scallops, and the unexpected crisp smoked salmon tostada. It’s certainly not your everyday smoked salmon on a bagel, no one would imagine the flavor of smoked salmon, crema, capers, and pickled red onion could pair so well with a tiny crisp tortilla.

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Photo by Dianne Russell
Smoked Salmon Tostada
The Contramar fish (snapper) for two, served with rice, beans, and homemade tortillas, begged to be assembled into fish tacos, which many at the table took to heart. Inspired by a restaurant in Mexico, only a certain number of these dishes are prepared each day. The fish is mild and perfect with the accompaniments, and the homemade tortillas are dense enough to handle them.
Gaines says that they use 200 lbs of masa every day for the tortillas (and 12-15 cases of avocados). The tortilla chips, the salsas, and the guacamole are all made on-site.
I didn’t taste the Pork Spareribs with Chipotle Glaze, but my tablemates remarked on their tenderness and the “not too heavy” sauce, which they said, “Starts off sweet with a great spicy afterbite from the chipotles.”

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Courtesy of Las Brisas
Seared Sea Scallops
The sea scallops were a favorite. Seared, they are served on a cauliflower puree with tomatillos, green olives, and wine beurre blanc. The puree and salt of the olives accent the silkiness of the scallops.
The white shrimp and crab ceviche is fresh and light with a surprise crunch of jicama. Not heavy-handed with seasonings as so many ceviches are, this one lets the individual flavors soar.
In refining the menu, Gaines decided to limit the dessert options to three: Traditional flan, which is the right texture (not too custardy) and flavor, and not overpowered with caramel. It’s served with seasonal fruit, in our case tangerines.

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Photo by Dianne Russell
Traditional Flan
The chocolate flourless cake, when eaten with a small dollop of the whipped cream, is a combination made in heaven. The third dessert option is a trio of sorbets – coconut, mango, and pineapple, which I will give a try next time.
“Our number one priority is ensuring that our longstanding community and visitors have an exquisite experience from the moment they step on the Las Brisas property. The views are, as always, stunning, and our goal was to create a culinary program that is just as memorable,” Gaines said.
And they have succeeded. Mine was a blissful experience, one shared by those around the table who all commented on the superb and inventive fare. Gaines’ culinary talents and the management expertise of Gardner have combined to make their vision come to fruition.
Las Brisas is located at 361 Cliff Dr.
For more information, go to www.lasbrisaslagunabeach.com or call (949) 497-5434.