No bones about it: Fishbone brings new “transcendental gastronomy” to Laguna
Story and photos by DIANNE RUSSELL
The French epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, who declared: “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are,” was the author of one of the most famous food books ever written, The Physiology of Taste.
After eating at Laguna’s new Fishbone restaurant, this is what you are – giddy with the joy of eating and spirited away with each new taste, the epitome of “transcendental gastronomy” as Brillat-Savarin coined it.
My husband and I had the pleasure of dining on dishes prepared by Portuguese native Pedro Pereira, chef and CEO of Fishbone Restaurant Group,
who surprisingly never attended culinary school. He just opened his fifth Fishbone, the first outside of Canada, and the Laguna community is the lucky beneficiary. The original location opened in 2010 in Stouffville, Ontario, with additional locations also in Stouffville, Aurora, and Innisfil, Ontario.

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Fishbone opened last Tuesday
First off, doesn’t everyone want to know where the name and logo came from? The name Fishbone comes from their whole fish offerings, and Pereira adds that his father used to call him “bones” when he was a boy because he was skinny. No doubt then, as now, he was always in motion.
Formerly the home of Tortilla Republic, this prime spot – with views of the ocean and Wyland Gallery – experienced a makeover of epic proportions and has gone from dark tones to a sophisticated yet casual palette of white, light woods, and mellow lighting. Happily, for us older folks, it has soft background music that doesn’t interfere with conversation. The expansive interior seats 100 guests and features a large banquet room that accommodates up to 28 people – with its own television monitor for meetings.
Chef Abad Martinez, from the helm at Mesa in Costa Mesa, heads the kitchen.
Not only did Pereira design and build the new interior, but he and Grant Sommerville, who Pereira brought from Canada as General Manager to oversee this location, sanded and refinished the existing tables (and there are many). He is very much “hands on” it seems, and not just with the cuisine, but with every aspect of the restaurant.

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Fishbone’s décor is sophisticated and welcoming at the same time
Pereira says, “The new décor was designed for a date night or to come in from the beach.”
How does a self-taught chef end up owning five restaurants?
Pereira travelled from Portugal to Canada at the age of 18 to start a career in soccer. To earn money, he got a restaurant job and started as a food runner and then worked his way up at some of the best restaurants in Toronto. In 2008, before Fishbone, he opened a take-out Portuguese barbeque chicken restaurant.
Five or so years ago, he first came to Laguna to visit a soccer-playing friend who lives in Emerald Bay and says, “I loved it here.”
Pereira now travels back and forth between Laguna and Canada, where his wife and three daughters reside (his oldest daughter works in one of the restaurants).
However, there is more to the food experience than the fare, no matter how mind-blowing. The activity involves other elements: the décor, the servers, the overall vibe – it all combines to create a free-flowing and welcoming atmosphere.
Pereira appears to be a master at orchestrating it all.
Sommerville says, “I’m the longest standing employee, four years. Pereira has been a mentor – and in the way he treats people. If all goes right, he will be the last person I work for.”
Pereira says, “We love what we do, and we wanted to find the right people.”
They certainly succeeded. Larissa, our server, was wonderful, accommodating our requests and numerous questions.

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Tiger Shrimp
Everyone on the staff has been trained to perfection, not just on the various dishes and on how to please patrons, but in the backstory of this Laguna Fishbone endeavor as well as the other locations.
Server Morgan Craig came to Fishbone from The Deck, where he worked for several years. He met Pereira through a Canadian friend, and when he found out Pereira was opening here, he asked if he could work for him. “What Pedro and Grant do, there’s nothing like it. They’re very smart. It’s a great learning experience, the best experience ever.”
Now to embark on the culinary delights. Pereira’s philosophy is all about clean food: “Freshness, simplicity, seasonality, and good seasonings are the foundation of my food philosophy.”
Sommerville says, “We make everything from scratch in our kitchens. Everything is fresh. The only thing in the freezer is gelato.”
The first offering Pereira presented was Tiger Shrimp with Piri Piri sauce, butter, lemon, and chilies – which had just the right amount of spice but not enough to overpower the sweet and tender shrimp. This proved to be one of my favorites.

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Larissa with guests
Although I initially expressed an aversion to octopus due to the texture, Pereira’s rendition was unlike any octopus dish I’d ever had before, a more rich and dense, but not rubbery, consistency due to he explained his cooking method. It was served with a roasted red pepper sauce and saffron aioli.
The Bay Scallops and Crab Linguine dish with fennel, chilies, and white wine cream and chives was in a savory light sauce, which didn’t compete with the freshness of the fish.
The highlight was the Grilled Whole Fish – sea bream – which only comes from the Mediterranean, and was served with grilled asparagus, cherry tomato salad, charred lemon, and drizzled with Esporao Olive Oil from Portugal.
With great artistry, Pereira deboned the fish (he’s trained his staff in the same technique), as he explained the process. Surprisingly, sprinkling the sea bream with coarse salt only added to its already delicate flavor.

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Grilled Sea Bream from the Mediterranean
If all this wasn’t enough to put one into a euphoric food trance, there was still dessert to come, and it was superb. Putting a new spin on Crème Brule, Pereira served Maple Syrup Crème Brule and a delectable Chocolate Mousse. This last course was complemented by a white Port wine (a style of dessert wine) and was the perfect end to a perfect meal.
Crème Brule is one of my favorite desserts, but this one, served with Brandy braised apples, was above and beyond any other. In every bite, there was a tantalizing mix of acid and sweet. My favorite.
My husband loved the Chocolate Mousse, and I tasted it, but since he’s a huge chocolate fan, I let him have it. There wasn’t a spoonful left.
What’s there to say at the end of an extraordinary food experience when there are no more available adjectives.
Brillat-Savarin said, “The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star.”
That might be a bit of an exaggeration, however, Fishbone, with its innovative dishes, opened up a whole new galaxy of gastronomical delights.
Fishbone is located at 480 S Coast Hwy. For more information, call the restaurant at (949) 343-4889 or visit www.fishbonerestaurants.com.
The restaurant is open Sunday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Happy hour is offered from 2 - 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, and all day Monday.